You ‘ve finally decided to spruce up that dull-looking engine bay, but you ‘re caught up in the dilemma of deciding whether or not you want to paint or powder coat those metal locomotive parts. Before you decide to pull out that rattle can, here are a few facts to consider. What are the biggest differences in painting versus powderize coating, you ask ? Powder coating compared to paint is more tolerant to impact, moisture, chemicals, ultraviolet fall, and other weather conditions. Because of its lastingness, powder coat besides reduces the risks of scratches, chipping, abrasions, corrosion, fade, and other wear and tear issues much associated with rouge. Plain and childlike, it ‘s stronger and tougher. But the question we frequently hear from our enthusiasts is : How hard would it be to barely strip and powder coating in your garage at home ?

The gunpowder coating process begins by prepping whatever parts you ‘re planning to powder coat. It can mean removing the former paint, and for that we recommend using a chemical stripper like the merchandise pictured above from Jasco. If your manifold paper has an OEM gunpowder coat, we suggest using a media blaster to remove the factory finish. After using a brush to apply stripper to the surface of a cast aluminum intake manifold from a visualize Subaru EJ25 engine, we were able to scrape away the OEM paint. here ‘s the manifold paper in bare aluminum after we prepped and cleaned it with Eastwood Pre. It goes on after the stripper and removes silicone, wax, polish, and dirt equally well as promotes paint/powder adhesion. To apply the powder to our DIY project, we purchased an Eastwood Dual-Voltage Powder Coating System. The dual Voltage accelerator gives you the ability to coat modest areas using the low ( 15kV ) place or larger areas using a high-octane setting ( 25kV ). You will need a compressed vent source to use the powder artillery ; 5 to 10 psi from a portable tank with a regulator or a compressor should do the trick.

Eastwood offers over 90 singular colors to fit any project you ‘re looking to conquer. From ace gloss to metallic finishes, there ‘s a color that ‘s perfect for you. We went with “ Machine grey, ” exchangeable to Battleship gray. We highly recommend using high-temp silicone chew to prevent powder from plugging threaded holes and/or studs. If you ‘ve ever powder coated before, you know how much of a annoyance it is to rethread coat holes. Most powders need to cure at 400 degrees F after becoming fluid, so to cure them correctly in your garage, you can use an old unnecessary toaster oven if the parts are minor adequate, like these pulleys ( do not, under any circumstances, use the toaster oven or any oven in your kitchen to cure powder coated parts ). If the parts you ‘re looking to coat are besides boastfully for the oven, consider using Eastwood ‘s Infrared Powder Curing System. We used their 10×8-inch lamp to cure our manifold inside our garage. We cured this consumption in the dead of winter, so we built our own oven by wrapping the apparatus in thwart to maintain ceaseless heat throughout the stallion assemble. Pretty ghetto, but it worked ! Since the manifold paper was obviously relatively long, we opted to cure the piece in two sections. here ‘s a scene of the pulley we powder coated clean out of the toaster oven.

here ‘s a concluding visualize of our powderize coated intake manifold fix to be bolted on to our project EJ25 locomotive. Lookin ‘ thoroughly !

source : https://thaitrungkien.com
Category : Tutorial