How to Properly Install Ceramic Tile Floors for Beautiful Results

    You ’ ll spend a lot on supplies, but you may placid save money by DIYing. once you have your supplies, you ’ re ready to start building your beautiful space. Follow these steps to give your space the dateless forte and beauty of newfangled ceramic tile floors. Whether you ’ re remodeling your kitchen or you ’ re merely tired of looking at the outdated tile in your toilet, tile projects are bound to come up in your home. While many choose to hire a local tile installer for this labor-intensive task, it can be a manageable DIY project—if you have the proper planning.

  1. Remove Old Flooring

    If your installation is happening in a room that already has an old tile floor, you ’ ll indigence to chisel it out and remove the existing floor with a tile scraper. This part of the job can get dusty, therefore wear eye protection and a safety disguise. establish good public discussion by opening windows, if possible. Protect adjoining rooms by laying formative sheets to catch airborne dust. If you are installing tile in a bathroom, you may besides need to remove the toilet, baseboards, and vanity .

  2. Examine and Prepare the Subfloor

    A worker preparing the subfloor by levelling it photograph : AA+W / Adobe Stock once your old floor is cleared away, inspect the substrate, or subfloor. This is the come on you ’ ll be installing your tile on. A subfloor for tile can be solid concrete, exterior plywood, concrete angel board, or an uncouple membrane. If you use a membrane, cut it to size, adhere it to the subfloor with mortar, and waterproof the seams with waterproofing tape. No matter what your subfloor is made of, it should be clean, level, and stable. If it ’ sulfur uneven or flexes below weight, solve the issue before facility to avoid break tiles and failed grout in the future .

  3. Lay Out Tiles Using Spacers

    Before adhering any tiles, create a dry layout to map out what your final initiation will look like. Strive to create a layout that maximizes the number of whole tiles, and try to minimize the size of any cuts you ’ ll need to make. Pro Tip: Place awkwardly-cut tiles out of the chief production line of sight from the doorway, such as where a vanity will cover them. To make your finish surface a harmonious as possible, measure to find the center of each wall. Snap a chalk line between the center points of both sets of opposition walls to create four quadrants. The intersection of the two methamphetamine lines will be your starting degree.

    Start your first row, mixing tile from different boxes to help keep the color consistent throughout the room. If you end up with humble pieces ( less than 2 inches wide ) on either edge, shift your layout to make your edge tiles wider and mark new chalk lines in the center. You ’ ll want your tile measurements at opposition walls to be the lapp. Repeat this process for the other two walls .

  4. Prepare Your Mortar and Spread the First Section

    A worker applying mortar to the subfloor photograph : Halfpoint Images/Moment/Getty Images Mix your mortar by following the instructions on your package. It should be roughly the consistency of peanut butter. Let it rest for about 10 minutes ( or the measure of time recommended on the packaging ). Using your trowel, spread an even layer of mortar over a 2-by-3-foot sphere along the uncoiled edge of your starting point lines. Comb the mortar at a 45-degree angle with the erose edge of your trowel for better adhesion, pressing down hard so that the trowel makes a trash sound. Working in small sections at a time will help prevent the mortar from drying besides promptly .

  5. Set the Tile, Cutting as Needed

    Using a straightedge as a lead, gently lay your foremost tile on the mortar along the start channel. reproducible pressure helps ensure each tile sits at the same acme as its neighbors. Place tile spacers for even joints, and continue to set each tile the lapp manner. As you work, use a damp sponge to wipe away any mortar that gets on your tile surface. Use a level sporadically to check that your tiles are even, and use an A-square or framing square to check that they are sitting squarely to one another. When you get to an edge where cuts need to be made, use a cinch tile tender for directly cuts. If you need to make a little mown ( less than 1 column inch across-the-board ) or a wind cut, score the tile first and snap pieces off with a hand-held tile child. Be indisputable to leave a one-quarter-inch break around the perimeter of the room for grout expansion .

  6. Fill Tile Joints With Grout and Clean

    Close-up of a man applying grout between ceramic tiles photograph : Rawpixel/iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images once all tiles are set, wait 24 hours before adding grout.

    once that time has elapsed, remove all tile spacers. Mix your grout and scoop a trowelful onto the floor. Starting from the edges of the room and working toward the center, bedspread and press the grout into your joints using a rubber float, held at a 45-degree angle—just like when you were spreading mortar to set tiles. Allow the grout to set for about 20 minutes, or until it is firm to the touch. then wash the tile by wiping the surface with a damp sponge and a bucket of clean and jerk water. Wipe off all grout haze, rinsing your sponge much. You may have to repeat this process several times. Be careful not to wipe excessively aggressively, or you may unintentionally pull grout out of the joints .

  7. Let the Tile Set and Seal

    To finish your facility, apply a silicone sealant to the one-quarter-inch expansion gaps on the perimeter. Wait three weeks ( or whatever amount of time is recommended on your grout promotion ) to apply a grout sealant as well. When the sealant is set and dry, you can install baseboards, modeling, transition strips, vanities, and toilets .

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