fix to get started ? Keep read and I ’ ll go through bit-by-bit directions of how I swapped out an old faucet with a Moen Adler Faucet, which besides comes with a matching drain/stopper assembly .
- Step 1: How to remove your old faucet
- Step 2: How to install the new one + the new drainpipe
- Step 3: Finish off with the complete testing, so you have the confidence to know that there’s not going to be any leaks at your water lines or your faucet or your drainpipe.
I ’ ll besides parcel how to address your p-trap and make certain everything lines up, along with other tips to make this process politic. If you haven ’ thyroxine done this before and you ’ re not comfortable with plumbing, this tutorial is for you .
Rather watch than read? Check out this 22-minute video.
Table of Contents
Tools and Parts Used:
disclaimer : This article contains consort links, which means that if you click on one of the merchandise links, I ’ ll receive a small commission .
Step 1: Remove Your Old Faucet
A. Turn off the main water shutoff valve
Turning off the main water shutoff valve read : Don ’ metric ton start this plan until you know where your main water shutoff is located – and you ’ ra confident it ’ s working by rights .
My main water shutoff is in the basement. You ’ ll be able to tell it ’ sulfur in the “ on ” put because it ’ south parallel to the way of the pipe or flow of the water. To turn it off, put it in a perpendicular position .
B. Remove the water line
If you have water valves at the fixture and they don ’ thyroxine leak, you can shut them down without an issue, but it ’ s calm good to know where your independent body of water shutoff valve is ( in case there ’ s a leak and you need to shut down water to the home ). I besides capped off the 90-degree fittings, so I could pressurize the water to the rest of the home while we ’ re doing the project .
indeed if you besides have fittings without urine shutoff valves, find out how to remove those 90-degree fittings and install new shutoff valves .
Removing the nuts with pliers
If you run into credit card nuts, generally you can tighten and loosen them with your hands. I besides used steal joint pliers and * lento * tried to remove the nut. Keep in mind there could be corrosion and mineral deposits, thus take your time. If you rush you could cause wrong, which will extend your project .
tip : Dealing with green mineral deposits ? Vinegar can help break it up. If you have corrosion or rust, use WD-40 and try to penetrate through that rust and loosen up the nuts or components .
C. Remove the faucet
I removed the whole dressing table top, but if you ’ re keeping your dressing table acme, you can start to remove your drain and plug — and possibly even the P-trap to give you more room while you install the new faucet and the water lines .
Rigid Multi-purpose tool
I had the alloy nut on the one side and the fictile en on the other holding the faucet in. For the plastic addict, I used a rigid Sink and Faucet Multi-Tool that makes it very easy to remove the nuts. Since the alloy nut was reasonably dilute, I besides used channel locks to loosen it up .
Removing the old faucet
once both of those nuts are removed, you can go to the clear side and pull off your faucet. If you ’ re keeping your vanity top in place, go ahead and get the spacer gasket out and clean the surface. At this point, you ’ re ready to install the new one .
Step 2: Put in your new parts
A. Get your drain and associated parts
Adding the new pieces for the faucet replacement The first step hera is to take out your drain and consort parts, so you can put the new one in position .
If you haven ’ thymine done this before, keep in mind that most faucets — particularly when you ’ re dealing with Moen or Delta — come with a new pop fly drain assembly that will be in the box. It ’ sulfur courteous to have those new components because it will get a piece begrimed and your pivot rod can rust and break off and fail over time .
B. Put the faucet in first
note : I put the faucet in first before the drain to save myself some quad .
Putting the gasket in place
first, put the gasket in place using the “ top front ” label as a usher. then you ’ ll take your faucet and get it approximately in set .
Tightening the nuts by hand under the sink
Under the sink, you ’ ll thread the two nuts on, tighten them by hired hand, and then make certain everything ’ s centered. tip : You want the nuts to be besotted adequate where it resists your movement, so they will stay in set for the final examination tighten .
Centering the faucet in place once everything is centered where you want it, then cautiously tighten it — but try not to move the faucet at all because you just centered it up where you want it .
C. Install the water lines
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Passing the line through and tightening it up Without the drain in place, it ’ s much easier to get your water lines on. Get the rigid wrench that fits these water lines. then pass the actual occupation through the tool and tighten it up .
Creating a loop to clear up space I besides installed quarter-turn shutoff valves both on the hot and cold sides. To install the lines, put a loop topology in to clear up distance for the drain. Hand tightened to start and then use the slip-joint pliers or crescent wrench again and lento tighten .
D. Install the drain with Plumber’s Putty
Snaking the Plumber’s Putty Start off by working the Plumber ’ south Putty into a snake .
Beading the Plumber’s Putty Put a generous bead all the way around the rim. Why ? This is going to seal the top come on to the actual sink itself. ( Read more about Plumber ’ s Putty here. )
gratuity : It ’ south besides very authoritative if you have your old conceit top to make sure this is completely clean, so you ’ ll get a dependable seal .
Installing the pivot rod
front the pivot gat straight back, so it is centered. immediately, you ’ ll begin to tighten the bottom nut. So you ’ ll have a little white newspaper disk and then a large gasket — that disc allows the fictile en to tighten without gripping onto that gasket. normally, you can bridge player tighten this. If you need a fiddling help, use channel locks – but be careful since it ’ s fictile and you can easily break off the dentition .
Excess plumber’s putty (a good sign!)
once you are done tightening the nut from the bottom of the amour propre, break off the extra Plumber ’ south Putty and put it back in your container. If you have a good seal, it ’ sulfur going to squish out evenly all the way around the drain .
E. Install the Pivot Rod
Checking on the operation
Insert the pivot rod by taking the wing nut off and inserting it. Make sure you can move the pivot rod up and down — and check that the drain goes up and down on the peak english. besides, make sure the bottom loop on the drain is aligned so the pivot perch. You will know this is the case as when the pivot perch is installed you will not be able to pull the drain stopper out of the drain
now you can install the pilfer rod from the circus tent, tighten it to the clevis strap, and then connect the strap to the pivot rod with the habit of the spring clip. This will take a little adjustment as you want the face lift gat low when the drain stopper is up and then the rise gat should be higher when the drain conversation stopper is all the way down. Make certain once everything is install you have for range of motion and can completely open and close the drain stoper .
Step 3: P-Trap and Testing
A. Testing and Cleaning
At this decimal point, your drain and plug are installed and everything ’ second connected astir. If you have your p-trap in set you might be good to go now ! Keep understand to see how to install the rest of the drain line ( including the p-trap ) and then that will complete this undertaking
B. Install the P-trap
Make the connection to the wall with the enfeeble pipe. I used a en, which comes with two different washers : one would be for a 1 1/2″ drain organ pipe and the other is for a 1 1/4″ pipe. Since I ’ meter doing a 1 1/4″ to this toilet dressing table that ’ s what I ’ ll be using .
first, insert the addict and then the washer with the angle facing the wall. Insert it on the pipe and then loosely tighten that up because you want everything to match up. similar to before, you want to tighten it then everything stays in place, but you besides want to be able to move the pipe in and out to get your P-trap lined up with the enfeeble tailpiece .
Installing the p trap then, put the p-trap into the drain tailpiece coming out of the cesspool and see how it lines up .
Measuring the downward slope
For me, since the pipe comes out of the rampart and I ’ d like it to have a slight down slope going to the wall, I measured it ( about ¾ ” ). then with a hacksaw, I cut off an column inch from the grey tailpiece to get a bit more clearance so everything will fit up absolutely
Securing the p-trap in place now that everything is adjusted, and where I want it. I then tightened all of the white nuts to the p-trap by pass and finally, I tightened the nut cheeseparing to the wall with a copulate of transmit locks .
C. Final testings
Turning on the water to the faucet
end but surely not least, test everything out ! With your faucet in the off military position, you ’ ll turn on your water lines and let the water menstruate. Look for any leaks in the drain and water system lines. normally, you ’ ll get your leaks dripping down at some of the joints or dripping off the bottom of the P-trap .
tip : I recommend having towels and a container handy just in case you run into a water system leak
Filling the sink with water I besides filled the sinkhole all the direction up because I wanted the water to go through the overflow. Why ? It ’ s a different stream path on that drain organ pipe, so if I get water coming through the overflow and still have no leaks – that means we are good to go .
final trial : shut off your water at the faucet and open the drain. This is going to be the most pressure and flow going through your pipe as the entire sink drains. so if you ’ ra clear, you ’ ra estimable to go on all fronts !
The Wrap Up
Hopefully, now you have the confidence to swap out and get a newfangled faucet installed. This successor kit out was only $ 50 bucks with a huge bribe. The finish : a spruced-up look and years of zero sustenance with this faucet and drain fabrication .
overall, I am super happy with this project and I ’ m constantly glad to save some money ( $ 100- $ 150 ) and make a large change to my toilet .
Read more: How to replace a toilet handle
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